Sylhet Division in northeastern Bangladesh has the perfect climate for growing tea, as the British discovered around 1850. No need to train local people and develop their skills; just x91importx92 laborers from other parts of your empire, say somewhere in current India, dump them on an estate and let them sweat for you. In this way, you at least prevent your workforce from running away, as they are Hindus and dependent on the caste system and can never intermarry with the local Muslims. You also ensure sufficient work for BRAC, because you pay peanuts (about half a dollar for a dayx92s hard work) to your workers plus give some basic housing and healthcare, so people donx92t have enough money to send their children to school, and free education for the poorest of Bangladeshx92s people is necessary.

It was interesting visiting some of these x91tea gardenx92 one-room schools last week. They are hidden in between small village houses and small, colorful Hindu temples, in perhaps the greenest part of the country (although it is really hard to distinguish between green x96 greener x96 greenest in a place which is, well, considerably GREEN). Compared to other BRAC schools, the kidsx92 clothes are dirtier, their bodies skinnier, their enthusiasm probably even greater, and their curiosity more explicit. You are welcomed with ethnic songs about work in the tea garden and the typical Indian x91dance with the sticksx92, performed perfectly by pupils who canx92t be over 8 years old, and then asked a million questions. You definitely canx92t leave without shaking every kidx92s hand.

Meanwhile, the parents continue their hard work. Luckily, their children have taught them how to write their names, and prepare oral rehydration salts when they are sick. The tea leaves they pick are processed in one of the amazingly efficient (and incredibly humid) factories, and turned into many x91cuppasx92, either in Bangladesh itself or abroad, or into the absolutely undrinkable, but pretty decorative 7-layer tea the region is known for.

Sylhet Division in northeastern Bangladesh has the perfect climate for growing tea, as the British discovered around 1850. No need to train local people and develop their skills; just xe2x80x98importxe2x80x99 laborers from other parts of your empire, say somewhere in current India, dump them on an estate and let them sweat for you. In this way, you at least prevent your workforce from running away, as they are Hindus and dependent on the caste system and can never intermarry with the local Muslims. You also ensure sufficient work for BRAC, because you pay peanuts (about half a dollar for a dayxe2x80x99s hard work) to your workers plus give some basic housing and healthcare, so people donxe2x80x99t have enough money to send their children to school, and free education for the poorest of Bangladeshxe2x80x99s people is necessary.

It was interesting visiting some of these xe2x80x98tea gardenxe2x80x99 one-room schools last week. They are hidden in between small village houses and small, colorful Hindu temples, in perhaps the greenest part of the country (although it is really hard to distinguish between green xe2x80x93 greener xe2x80x93 greenest in a place which is, well, considerably GREEN). Compared to other BRAC schools, the kidsxe2x80x99 clothes are dirtier, their bodies skinnier, their enthusiasm probably even greater, and their curiosity more explicit. You are welcomed with ethnic songs about work in the tea garden and the typical Indian xe2x80x98dance with the sticksxe2x80x99, performed perfectly by pupils who canxe2x80x99t be over 8 years old, and then asked a million questions. You definitely canxe2x80x99t leave without shaking every kidxe2x80x99s hand.

Meanwhile, the parents continue their hard work. Luckily, their children have taught them how to write their names, and prepare oral rehydration salts when they are sick. The tea leaves they pick are processed in one of the amazingly efficient (and incredibly humid) factories, and turned into many xe2x80x98cuppasxe2x80x99, either in Bangladesh itself or abroad, or into the absolutely undrinkable, but pretty decorative 7-layer tea the region is known for.

Whereas the Lonely Planet sucks as far as maps are concerned (excuse my French), its information about THE STARING GAME is pretty accurate as I discovered during my first days in flood-prone Bangladesh.

Fridays here are like Sundays in most other countries; a perfect opportunity to go out and explore. Never mind itx92s only the upperclass part of town I have decided to go. It is where I am based (in one of BRACx92s training centers) and it wonx92t hurt to find my bearings. But only two blocks from x91homex92, Ix92m afraid I have already lost themx85 And the staring started even before that!

There are virtually no women on the street. Imagine a white woman walking by, fighting with her umbrella, and scarf/dupatta to cover certain body shapes. On a Friday morning, in the rain, sightseeing or something like that (without having had breakfast, because she has misread the weekend breakfast times on the canteen door). Honestly, who can blame those men? At this time of the day, I can buy cars, the latest models of Nokia phones and extremely beautiful local clothing, from plain and simple cotton to silver embroidered silk, but finding a place to sit down and have something to eat seems more challenging. Finally, Mr Baker shows up. I discover later that itx92s a local bakery chain with many outlets, serving fresh sandwiches, pastries, and chocolates, a whole shop full of them, and hot coffee (REAL coffee). Thatx92s all I need to refuel and continue sightseeing in Gulshan. For your information: there isnx92t actually anything worth seeing.

The next couple of meals (with the right timing!) are full of anticipation. From my side, because I am curious to see how long the 50 or so pairs of eyes will keep staring before the kids actually open their mouths and say something, and from their side for exactly the same reason. As I discover later, they are all just too shy (including the adults) to address The Foreigner. But God! / Allah!, once that actually happens, there is no stopping them any time soon!

What is your country? What is your name? What is your fatherx92s name? What is your motherx92s name? How many brothers and sisters do you have? What is your brotherx92s name? What does your brother do? Are you married? How old are you? What is your qualification? When did you come to BD? How long will you stay in BD? What do you think about the political situation in BD? What is your favourite food? What do people eat in your country? What is the difference between Holland and The Netherlands? Why do you use a fork and knife? Do you like cricket? Do you like football? Can I be your friend? How old are you? Do you like BD? What do you think about the traffic situation in Dhaka? Will you visit BD again? What is your religion? What is your room number? How much is your salary? What is your phone number? Can I take your picture?

Especially the last question, or rather the scene afterwards, cracks me up, as about ten 17-year-old kids are all lined up taking my picture. Who is the tourist (well, visitor at least) here?! I am even asked to solve the problems in their x91love livesx92: x93I have a girlfriend and she wants to marry me, but I donx92t want to marry her. What should I do?x94

These poor college kids were selected by BRAC to attend a special training to develop their English and computer skills, so they are practicing as much as they can. Even amongst themselves they try to speak English. Meanwhile, I throw in the three sentences of Bangla I know here and there, and manage to get what I need from the little corner shop (though, admittedly, x91chocolatex92, x91Coca Colax92 and x91Pringlesx92 are pretty universal words so that onex92s easy). Anyways. Ix92m loving this place so far. It is very likely that four weeks from now, I may be utterly annoyed by being asked the same questions over and over again. However, the people are amazingly friendly and thatx92s probably not going to change any time soon.

—-

* Bangla name given to Floor by her dear BD colleagues in West Africa, meaning something along the line of x91flowerx92 for x91pushpox92, and x91didix92 meaning x91sisterx92

Whereas the Lonely Planet sucks as far as maps are concerned (excuse my French), its information about THE STARING GAME is pretty accurate as I discovered during my first days in flood-prone Bangladesh.

Fridays here are like Sundays in most other countries; a perfect opportunity to go out and explore. Never mind itxe2x80x99s only the upperclass part of town I have decided to go. It is where I am based (in one of BRACxe2x80x99s training centers) and it wonxe2x80x99t hurt to find my bearings. But only two blocks from xe2x80x98homexe2x80x99, Ixe2x80x99m afraid I have already lost themxe2x80xa6 And the staring started even before that!

There are virtually no women on the street. Imagine a white woman walking by, fighting with her umbrella, and scarf/dupatta to cover certain body shapes. On a Friday morning, in the rain, sightseeing or something like that (without having had breakfast, because she has misread the weekend breakfast times on the canteen door). Honestly, who can blame those men? At this time of the day, I can buy cars, the latest models of Nokia phones and extremely beautiful local clothing, from plain and simple cotton to silver embroidered silk, but finding a place to sit down and have something to eat seems more challenging. Finally, Mr Baker shows up. I discover later that itxe2x80x99s a local bakery chain with many outlets, serving fresh sandwiches, pastries, and chocolates, a whole shop full of them, and hot coffee (REAL coffee). Thatxe2x80x99s all I need to refuel and continue sightseeing in Gulshan. For your information: there isnxe2x80x99t actually anything worth seeing.

The next couple of meals (with the right timing!) are full of anticipation. From my side, because I am curious to see how long the 50 or so pairs of eyes will keep staring before the kids actually open their mouths and say something, and from their side for exactly the same reason. As I discover later, they are all just too shy (including the adults) to address The Foreigner. But God! / Allah!, once that actually happens, there is no stopping them any time soon!

What is your country? What is your name? What is your fatherxe2x80x99s name? What is your motherxe2x80x99s name? How many brothers and sisters do you have? What is your brotherxe2x80x99s name? What does your brother do? Are you married? How old are you? What is your qualification? When did you come to BD? How long will you stay in BD? What do you think about the political situation in BD? What is your favourite food? What do people eat in your country? What is the difference between Holland and The Netherlands? Why do you use a fork and knife? Do you like cricket? Do you like football? Can I be your friend? How old are you? Do you like BD? What do you think about the traffic situation in Dhaka? Will you visit BD again? What is your religion? What is your room number? How much is your salary? What is your phone number? Can I take your picture?

Especially the last question, or rather the scene afterwards, cracks me up, as about ten 17-year-old kids are all lined up taking my picture. Who is the tourist (well, visitor at least) here?! I am even asked to solve the problems in their xe2x80x98love livesxe2x80x99: xe2x80x9cI have a girlfriend and she wants to marry me, but I donxe2x80x99t want to marry her. What should I do?xe2x80x9d

These poor college kids were selected by BRAC to attend a special training to develop their English and computer skills, so they are practicing as much as they can. Even amongst themselves they try to speak English. Meanwhile, I throw in the three sentences of Bangla I know here and there, and manage to get what I need from the little corner shop (though, admittedly, xe2x80x98chocolatexe2x80x99, xe2x80x98Coca Colaxe2x80x99 and xe2x80x98Pringlesxe2x80x99 are pretty universal words so that onexe2x80x99s easy). Anyways. Ixe2x80x99m loving this place so far. It is very likely that four weeks from now, I may be utterly annoyed by being asked the same questions over and over again. However, the people are amazingly friendly and thatxe2x80x99s probably not going to change any time soon.

—-

* Bangla name given to Floor by her dear BD colleagues in West Africa, meaning something along the line of xe2x80x98flowerxe2x80x99 for xe2x80x98pushpoxe2x80x99, and xe2x80x98didixe2x80x99 meaning xe2x80x98sisterxe2x80x99

Bells should have started ringing after the week kicked off extremely productively. They REALLY SHOULD HAVE, but they didnx92t. Probably because this is still Africa, and the only thing you can count on is that nothing goes according to plan. Especially when it comes to 1) depending on people; and 2) looking for any type of service. And of course, often these two are interlinked.

Things started going downhill on Wednesday, when The Passport Saga was exactly one week old. Seven days before, my passport and some money had been sent off to the Bangladesh High Commission in Nairobi (for lack of a facility closer to x91homex92), where they miraculously arrived last Monday (via the scenic route: Sierra Leone x96 Senegal x96 South Africa x96 Kenya) and a visa was issued promptly. Getting the document back though, is not so simple. Despite having paid the exorbitant amount of over 360 dollars (US) to the – globally known but in Africa now seriously despised – parcel company with the red and yellow logo.

x93I sent an e-mail to Nairobi the day after you told me the package was ready. They responded that they were busy. I sent them another e-mail this morning [Friday] and now I am waiting for a response. Thatx92s the procedure.x94

- x93I think you are going to call them now.x94

x93I have to wait for their response. Thatx92s the procedure.x94

- x93You are going to call them NOW.x94

The call is placed.

x93Oh, you did not get the e-mail? But you ANSWERED the e-mail. Your response is in my mailbox.x94

Some talk on the other side.

x93But I have the e-mail here. I will send it again, with your reply.x94

x85

x93Oh, so you were busy. Well, can you send someone to the High Commission now, to pick up the package? Itx92s urgent. Thank you.x94

I warn her: Itx92s Friday afternoon in East Africa, when Muslims go for prayers, and probably donx92t return to office after. I guess 99% of the HC staff is Muslim. She just gives me a blank stare. A few hours later, the lady calls back. x93The courier went to the HC, but did not find anyone there. They were probably out for lunch.x94 Or for prayers???
To be continued on Monday.

Saturday morning. My friend Jen shows malaria symptoms so we go to get her tested. The lack of professionalism at the lab is appalling and will not be detailed here. The good news, though, is that it isnx92t malaria. The next question is: where to find an ear-nose-throat doctor in Freetown on Saturday? The answer we have four hours later: NOWHERE. Not in Emergency Hospital. Not in Choitram Hospital. Not in Bathhurst Clinic. Not in Connaught Hospital. In fact, we donx92t necessarily need that ENT guy, just any doctor (this country has around 200 doctors for a population of over 6 million) who has that very-basic-instrument-with-the-little-light-with-which-you-can-look-into-ears. Right. Instruments are a rarity here. We end up downtown (taking 40 minutes to cover 3 kilometers) finding the ENT clinic, which is closed on weekends, but we do get the docx92s number and he gives an emergency phone consultation and a promise to sort everything out first thing Monday morning.

Thatx92s what you can get in terms of medical care. And we are lucky here, because we have an airconditioned car and money. Itx92s pretty depressing, although I do admit Ix92m not referring to poverty (I came to terms with that a long time ago), but to the lack of necessary services and especially the peoplex92s mindset. Total apathy is never going to move this country (admittedly: continent, with a few exceptions) ahead.

And then of course there are the other, small things, that contribute to my current desire to throw in the towel once again (although I never really get to doing it): the generatorx92s near-explosion followed by darkness, the office driver who doesnx92t speak English, is illiterate and doesnx92t really know town that well, the guy saying x93I love you, you are wonderful, I want to marry youx94 the second you meet him (randomly on the street), running water which is still not exactly running, the armed robberies (x91armedx92 meaning: knives, machetes and broken bottles) which are on the increase because of the rainy season (two SL colleagues got robbed last week), the cleaning lady who is not coming to work because she had an x91accidentx92 (i.e.: her husband attacked her with a knife), and harvest time at the farm, which means eating a lot of bitter gourd, an x91aquired tastex92 which I havenx92t managed too wellx85.

Today I also realized itx92s been 4.5 continuous years (FOUR AND A HALF YEARS) in Africa, and seven years in total. I figure that at some point the damage the continent does to a Westener must become irreversible. God knows how close to that point I am… For now, itx92s all about The Passport. The Passport is my ticket out of this place for about a month. Ix92m looking forward to finally visiting Bangladesh. And enjoying a little luxury in Dubai on the way back. Sweet

Bells should have started ringing after the week kicked off extremely productively. They REALLY SHOULD HAVE, but they didnxe2x80x99t. Probably because this is still Africa, and the only thing you can count on is that nothing goes according to plan. Especially when it comes to 1) depending on people; and 2) looking for any type of service. And of course, often these two are interlinked.

Things started going downhill on Wednesday, when The Passport Saga was exactly one week old. Seven days before, my passport and some money had been sent off to the Bangladesh High Commission in Nairobi (for lack of a facility closer to xe2x80x98homexe2x80x99), where they miraculously arrived last Monday (via the scenic route: Sierra Leone xe2x80x93 Senegal xe2x80x93 South Africa xe2x80x93 Kenya) and a visa was issued promptly. Getting the document back though, is not so simple. Despite having paid the exorbitant amount of over 360 dollars (US) to the – globally known but in Africa now seriously despised – parcel company with the red and yellow logo.

xe2x80x9cI sent an e-mail to Nairobi the day after you told me the package was ready. They responded that they were busy. I sent them another e-mail this morning [Friday] and now I am waiting for a response. Thatxe2x80x99s the procedure.xe2x80x9d

- xe2x80x9cI think you are going to call them now.xe2x80x9d

xe2x80x9cI have to wait for their response. Thatxe2x80x99s the procedure.xe2x80x9d

- xe2x80x9cYou are going to call them NOW.xe2x80x9d

The call is placed.

xe2x80x9cOh, you did not get the e-mail? But you ANSWERED the e-mail. Your response is in my mailbox.xe2x80x9d

Some talk on the other side.

xe2x80x9cBut I have the e-mail here. I will send it again, with your reply.xe2x80x9d

xe2x80xa6

xe2x80x9cOh, so you were busy. Well, can you send someone to the High Commission now, to pick up the package? Itxe2x80x99s urgent. Thank you.xe2x80x9d

I warn her: Itxe2x80x99s Friday afternoon in East Africa, when Muslims go for prayers, and probably donxe2x80x99t return to office after. I guess 99% of the HC staff is Muslim. She just gives me a blank stare. A few hours later, the lady calls back. xe2x80x9cThe courier went to the HC, but did not find anyone there. They were probably out for lunch.xe2x80x9d Or for prayers???
To be continued on Monday.

Saturday morning. My friend Jen shows malaria symptoms so we go to get her tested. The lack of professionalism at the lab is appalling and will not be detailed here. The good news, though, is that it isnxe2x80x99t malaria. The next question is: where to find an ear-nose-throat doctor in Freetown on Saturday? The answer we have four hours later: NOWHERE. Not in Emergency Hospital. Not in Choitram Hospital. Not in Bathhurst Clinic. Not in Connaught Hospital. In fact, we donxe2x80x99t necessarily need that ENT guy, just any doctor (this country has around 200 doctors for a population of over 6 million) who has that very-basic-instrument-with-the-little-light-with-which-you-can-look-into-ears. Right. Instruments are a rarity here. We end up downtown (taking 40 minutes to cover 3 kilometers) finding the ENT clinic, which is closed on weekends, but we do get the docxe2x80x99s number and he gives an emergency phone consultation and a promise to sort everything out first thing Monday morning.

Thatxe2x80x99s what you can get in terms of medical care. And we are lucky here, because we have an airconditioned car and money. Itxe2x80x99s pretty depressing, although I do admit Ixe2x80x99m not referring to poverty (I came to terms with that a long time ago), but to the lack of necessary services and especially the peoplexe2x80x99s mindset. Total apathy is never going to move this country (admittedly: continent, with a few exceptions) ahead.

And then of course there are the other, small things, that contribute to my current desire to throw in the towel once again (although I never really get to doing it): the generatorxe2x80x99s near-explosion followed by darkness, the office driver who doesnxe2x80x99t speak English, is illiterate and doesnxe2x80x99t really know town that well, the guy saying xe2x80x9cI love you, you are wonderful, I want to marry youxe2x80x9d the second you meet him (randomly on the street), running water which is still not exactly running, the armed robberies (xe2x80x98armedxe2x80x99 meaning: knives, machetes and broken bottles) which are on the increase because of the rainy season (two SL colleagues got robbed last week), the cleaning lady who is not coming to work because she had an xe2x80x98accidentxe2x80x99 (i.e.: her husband attacked her with a knife), and harvest time at the farm, which means eating a lot of bitter gourd, an xe2x80x98aquired tastexe2x80x99 which I havenxe2x80x99t managed too wellxe2x80xa6.

Today I also realized itxe2x80x99s been 4.5 continuous years (FOUR AND A HALF YEARS) in Africa, and seven years in total. I figure that at some point the damage the continent does to a Westener must become irreversible. God knows how close to that point I am… For now, itxe2x80x99s all about The Passport. The Passport is my ticket out of this place for about a month. Ixe2x80x99m looking forward to finally visiting Bangladesh. And enjoying a little luxury in Dubai on the way back. Sweet

Saturday after work. A short but deep nap. A brief taxi ride to Lumley beach. BRAC Microfinance staff is playing BRAC Programs in a football match. Many Sierra Leoneans had similar ideas to spend the afternoon; at the extreme end of the beach, no less than five different groups are trying to score goals. Three local beach bums are recruited as goal keepers and referee. Itx92s a beautiful afternoon. The place has a resort feel to it, but without tourists (and neglecting the derelict buildings under the palm trees). The ocean breeze only cools the contestants down a little bit, as the play intensifies when the minutes are ticking away. The final score isnx92t exactly clear, but it doesnx92t matter. There are softdrinks and shoarma when the game is over. Afterwards, as the sun is setting over the Atlantic, a lazy half hour beach stroll,followed by some drinks at the best beach bar in Lumley make for a pretty perfect Saturday afternoon and evening.

No lie-in on Sunday this week; the alarm goes off at the usual time. Sturdy shoes, plenty of water and some chop chop are packed, and then itx92s off to the chimpanzee sanctuary in Regent, a quaint little place in the hills just outside Freetown. After the taxi drops us, itx92s only one kilometer uphill. According to the sign post. Itx92s definitely more than that, and the final 150 meters are so steep and the humidity so intolerable that we reach the sanctuary completely drenched. The chimps, who have all been rescued from Sierra Leonean families who kept them as pets after their mothers had been killed for bush meat, are eagerly awaiting us. Or rather: their lunch. And when they are disturbed, they throw stones at you. Clearly the rehabilitation process hasnx92t been finalized yet.

Supposedly itx92s only a 20 minute walk along the main road to the village of Charlotte. In reality, after descending back to the main road, we walk along the unpaved and extremely dusty x91short-cutx92 into Freetown and the midday heat for about an hour, followed by another 20 minutes or so through the village itself. Itx92s tiny, and picturesque and tranquil with its Krio houses. The nearby water fall is a perfect lunch spot, even though, at the end of the dry season, x91fallx92 is a bit of an exaggeration for the trickle coming down the rocks. Itx92s very peaceful and quiet though. We have our bread, sardines, coke (here they are again!) and Pringles, hang out, chat to some other expats who have fled the craziness of Freetown, take some pictures. There are even a few drops of rain, although no serious downpoor to indicate the rainy season has started. When we head back after a couple of hours, we look likex85 Well, we look like people who have sweated and hung out in the dust for the greater part of the day. Transport is scarce, but luckily some people from one of the big mining companies take pity on us and the sorry state wex92re in, and give us a ride back to town in their comfortably air-conditioned Landcruiser.

Nothing can spoil this amazing weekend. Not even the water, which has stopped running. Againx85

Saturday after work. A short but deep nap. A brief taxi ride to Lumley beach. BRAC Microfinance staff is playing BRAC Programs in a football match. Many Sierra Leoneans had similar ideas to spend the afternoon; at the extreme end of the beach, no less than five different groups are trying to score goals. Three local beach bums are recruited as goal keepers and referee. Itxe2x80x99s a beautiful afternoon. The place has a resort feel to it, but without tourists (and neglecting the derelict buildings under the palm trees). The ocean breeze only cools the contestants down a little bit, as the play intensifies when the minutes are ticking away. The final score isnxe2x80x99t exactly clear, but it doesnxe2x80x99t matter. There are softdrinks and shoarma when the game is over. Afterwards, as the sun is setting over the Atlantic, a lazy half hour beach stroll,followed by some drinks at the best beach bar in Lumley make for a pretty perfect Saturday afternoon and evening.

No lie-in on Sunday this week; the alarm goes off at the usual time. Sturdy shoes, plenty of water and some chop chop are packed, and then itxe2x80x99s off to the chimpanzee sanctuary in Regent, a quaint little place in the hills just outside Freetown. After the taxi drops us, itxe2x80x99s only one kilometer uphill. According to the sign post. Itxe2x80x99s definitely more than that, and the final 150 meters are so steep and the humidity so intolerable that we reach the sanctuary completely drenched. The chimps, who have all been rescued from Sierra Leonean families who kept them as pets after their mothers had been killed for bush meat, are eagerly awaiting us. Or rather: their lunch. And when they are disturbed, they throw stones at you. Clearly the rehabilitation process hasnxe2x80x99t been finalized yet.

Supposedly itxe2x80x99s only a 20 minute walk along the main road to the village of Charlotte. In reality, after descending back to the main road, we walk along the unpaved and extremely dusty xe2x80x98short-cutxe2x80x99 into Freetown and the midday heat for about an hour, followed by another 20 minutes or so through the village itself. Itxe2x80x99s tiny, and picturesque and tranquil with its Krio houses. The nearby water fall is a perfect lunch spot, even though, at the end of the dry season, xe2x80x98fallxe2x80x99 is a bit of an exaggeration for the trickle coming down the rocks. Itxe2x80x99s very peaceful and quiet though. We have our bread, sardines, coke (here they are again!) and Pringles, hang out, chat to some other expats who have fled the craziness of Freetown, take some pictures. There are even a few drops of rain, although no serious downpoor to indicate the rainy season has started. When we head back after a couple of hours, we look likexe2x80xa6 Well, we look like people who have sweated and hung out in the dust for the greater part of the day. Transport is scarce, but luckily some people from one of the big mining companies take pity on us and the sorry state wexe2x80x99re in, and give us a ride back to town in their comfortably air-conditioned Landcruiser.

Nothing can spoil this amazing weekend. Not even the water, which has stopped running. Againxe2x80xa6

Of course I made it back to Freetown, about a week ago. The first eleven hours of the drive were almost zen, spent mostly listening to music. Therex92s something about Orffx92s Carmina Burana while crossing the remote south-east corner of the country…

Obviously, also this time, there are many stops along the way, especially on the Liberian side, with extremely explicit requests for small-small, notably from the heavy-set immigration commander wearing sunglasses in his pitch dark office about halfway to the border: x93I no wanx92 see yo documenx92. Today Friday. I wanx92 ma weekenx92,x94 meanwhile holding out his opened hand to me, waiting for some money from the x91whix92 womax92. Who clearly has no intention of giving anything to support the two or three girlfriends the man undoubtedly keeps apart from his wife, and leaves the office with her documents in hand and all her nasty-looking American and Liberian dollar bills in her wallet.

Once across the border, there arenx92t exactly any decent lunch spots along the way (neither are there on the Liberian side), so Fulah bread (similar to small baguettes) and tinned sardines are washed down with ever available Coca Cola at the shelter of the first police checkpoint in Sierra Leone.

After that, all goes well until it gets dark, when, luckily, we are back on paved roads. The final three hours of the journey are basically a struggle for survival against people and cattle crossing the road, broken down vehicles (not marked with triangles but tree branches, the amount and size of which grow the larger the car or truck concerned, sometimes meaning that half the forest has been hauled onto the road), moving vehicles without lights, or oncoming traffic with bright lights, completely blinding the driver, who, considering the challenging circumstances, does an amazing job. No matter how impossibly dangerous the traffic itself, the road is marked with an impressive amount of traffic signs, mileage indicators and road reflectors, something entirely unknown in the neighbouring Land of Liberty. Salone is way ahead.

Salone is also preparing for 50 years of Independence on April 27. Freetown is getting more and more festive, its streets adorned with thousands and thousand of little green, white and blue triangular flags, people wearing jewelery in the same colors, different printing companies competing to design the fanciest t-shirt, and hawkers selling badges, stickers and can openers in the national colors. This yearx92s Independence celebrations are going to be BIG. I hope I will have an opportunity to take part in them. Chances are great, though, that I will be in Liberia againx85

Of course I made it back to Freetown, about a week ago. The first eleven hours of the drive were almost zen, spent mostly listening to music. Therexe2x80x99s something about Orffxe2x80x99s Carmina Burana while crossing the remote south-east corner of the country…

Obviously, also this time, there are many stops along the way, especially on the Liberian side, with extremely explicit requests for small-small, notably from the heavy-set immigration commander wearing sunglasses in his pitch dark office about halfway to the border: xe2x80x9cI no wanxe2x80x99 see yo documenxe2x80x99. Today Friday. I wanxe2x80x99 ma weekenxe2x80x99,xe2x80x9d meanwhile holding out his opened hand to me, waiting for some money from the xe2x80x98whixe2x80x99 womaxe2x80x99. Who clearly has no intention of giving anything to support the two or three girlfriends the man undoubtedly keeps apart from his wife, and leaves the office with her documents in hand and all her nasty-looking American and Liberian dollar bills in her wallet.

Once across the border, there arenxe2x80x99t exactly any decent lunch spots along the way (neither are there on the Liberian side), so Fulah bread (similar to small baguettes) and tinned sardines are washed down with ever available Coca Cola at the shelter of the first police checkpoint in Sierra Leone.

After that, all goes well until it gets dark, when, luckily, we are back on paved roads. The final three hours of the journey are basically a struggle for survival against people and cattle crossing the road, broken down vehicles (not marked with triangles but tree branches, the amount and size of which grow the larger the car or truck concerned, sometimes meaning that half the forest has been hauled onto the road), moving vehicles without lights, or oncoming traffic with bright lights, completely blinding the driver, who, considering the challenging circumstances, does an amazing job. No matter how impossibly dangerous the traffic itself, the road is marked with an impressive amount of traffic signs, mileage indicators and road reflectors, something entirely unknown in the neighbouring Land of Liberty. Salone is way ahead.

Salone is also preparing for 50 years of Independence on April 27. Freetown is getting more and more festive, its streets adorned with thousands and thousand of little green, white and blue triangular flags, people wearing jewelery in the same colors, different printing companies competing to design the fanciest t-shirt, and hawkers selling badges, stickers and can openers in the national colors. This yearxe2x80x99s Independence celebrations are going to be BIG. I hope I will have an opportunity to take part in them. Chances are great, though, that I will be in Liberia againxe2x80xa6